In 1942, the US Army Corps of Engineers spent 8 months bushwhacking through the Northern Rockies to protect America and Canada during WWII. The trail they blazed in the name of defense is called the Alaska Highway. It is now a legendary roadway weaving it’s way through the mountains of British Columbia, the Yukon Territories and Alaska.

Here’s a 4-minute AI overview “podcast” you can listen to that summarizes this blog. This is a long read, so this gets you through some highlights. I’m honestly not sure how I feel about this new feature from WordPress, but it’s new so I thought I’d see if it gets used or not.

Today, the Alaska Highway, or ALCAN, is popular with tourists searching for solitude, wildlife, mountain scenery and adventure. The route begins at Mile 0 in Dawson Creek and ends 1,387 miles later at Delta Junction in Alaska.

We experienced a portion of the Alaska Highway during a trip to Wolf Lake Wilderness Lodge, a 40-minute float plane ride from Whitehorse. While most guests will fly from their destination to get to the Yukon, we loaded Tiny and a bunch of camera gear into the Fundra and hit the road.

The Road Trip

From western Minnesota, it’s about a 40-hour drive to Whitehorse. We broke this drive up into 3 days. Dan Amundson and I switched off every few hours and made our way across North Dakota and Saskatchewan to Lloydminster, Alberta. The first leg took about 16 hours or so. You also gain an hour in Alberta and, at times, in Saskatchewan, due to observations (or lack thereof) of Daylight Savings Time. The city sits on the border of Saskatchewan and Alberta. The oil and gas industry keeps the city humming. This means lots of hotels, restaurants and other amenities that make travel easy.

We stayed at The Royal Hotel and BCMInns on this trip. Both were pet friendly, had outside access from our rooms, and overall were fine. The Royal had a restaurant where you paid for breakfast abnd BCMInns had a continental breakfast that was made to order. In the past have stayed at Border Inn and Suites and Travelodge, which are also both pet friendly and have bars/restaurants located in the building. In fact, Travelodge has two bars on site. One is Bennigan’s, an Irish-themed pub and the other is Longbranch Steakhouse. I like the hotel, but it was always a long walk to the pet-friendly rooms on the top floor. Border Inn and Suites also has another bar/restaurant right next door called “Cheers.”

Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway

Day 2 took us about 14 hours from Lloydminster to Fort Nelson, BC. We recommend a stop in Dawson Creek at Mile 0. There is a nearby museum commemorating the Alaska Highway in a creative, circular route that leads upstairs to the public restroom – a necessary stop on a road trip.

The highway turns north at Dawson Creek and run parallel to the Northern Rockies. This stretch features long, flat portions where we got passed like we were standing still. 5 hours later we reached Fort Nelson. This small community had a Super 8 with nice, pet friendly rooms and outside access. There was a Boston Pizza in the parking lot with a pet friendly patio that we utilized on the way up and the way home. Show them your Super 8 room key and they’ll knock 10% off your food bill.

No Cell Service

The Alaska Highway stretch between Fort Nelson and Whitehorse is when the scenery really gets good. Just be aware that you will lose cell service for a few hours along the route. If you lose your google map directions, like I did, you won’t get them back until you get service. Thankfully, we weren’t turning off the highway until we got to Whitehorse and the land of 5G.

I’ve had people ask why we didn’t just keep driving, while switching off behind the wheel, instead of paying for hotel rooms? I didn’t want any of this drive to take place at night for a couple of reasons, including the scenery. But, even on the prairie of Saskatchewan and Alberta, moose often cross highways making travel slightly more risky after dark. There are campgrounds along the way for a cheaper lodging option or you can simply truck camp at various places too. We thought about it, but without something to charge camera batteries with, hotels were chosen.

Right away, we knew we needed to be camera ready. As we left town, a digital sign warned of wildlife on the road, even mentioning a specific kilometer marker. Personally, I wouldn’t pay attention to the location they warn about because wildlife can be anywhere. We saw everything but grizzly bears and mountain lions along the route.

Bison were common. I saw one roadkill bison and the damaged vehicle. I heard about another encounter that resulted in airlifting a person to the nearest hospital. Deer are bad enough, but moose and bison are not something I would like to hit.

Stone Mountain Provincial Park – 1 Hour from Fort Nelson

Stone Mountain Provincial Park was stunning. Mostly green from the lodgepole pine and the rest of the boreal forest that darkens the horizon. Rugged gray peaks rise up higher than the trees, making the skyline look black and white. It’s easy to see where the region got its name.

This is also where we first saw stone sheep on the Alaska Highway. Two young sheep browsed along the road, while one fearless animal sat perched along a steep cliff nearby.

Road conditions were excellent, considering the landscape. Some potholes and a little gravel were minor negatives in an overall superb roadway. Lots of signage, guard rails, grade percentage notifications, speed limits and other work make travel easy.

The Rivers Between the Mountains

After Stone Mountain, you drop down and cross the Racing River. There is a turn off by the bridge that you can strech the legs and take pictures of the fast moving water. Tiny wanted to swim here, but I was afraid she’d end up in the ocean. Dan and I stopped and had a leftover Boston Pizza chicken wing here.

The lowland between the Racing River and Toad River is a short break between close up mountain views. There is a little civilization there, some horses and then it’s back into the action.

Muncho Lake Provincial Park – 2 Hours from Stone Mountain

Small communities, hot springs, rushing rivers and other landmarks helped pass the time along the route. Muncho Lake transported us to a movie set. Mountains on one side, a long blue/green lake on the other, with more mountains rising up behind it. A float plane fired up and accelerated until the floats separated from the lake’s surface. Altitude was quickly gained and the plane disappeared in the distance.

More wildlife like caribou, elk, deer and even a wolf made appearances. This is a stretch we didn’t want to end. We kept one eye in the mirrors to make sure no one was behind us, because our pace slowed often to get good looks at the critters.

Between the drive up and the drive home, we saw:

• ?? – Lots of Bison
• ?? – Lots of grouse
• 12 – Black bears
• 3 – Caribou
• 5 – Stone Sheep
• 3 – Elk
• 2 – Coyotes
• 1 – Wolf
• Multiple mule deer and whitetail.
• 5 – Antelope (in Saskatchewan)
  
  We also saw a roadkill moose, bison and black bear. 3 things that I’ve never seen dead on the side of the road.

Once in a while the signs are in the right place. Shortly after passing a “Caution Caribou” sign, this bull caused the Fundra to come to a completely stop. We were ok with it.

Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park

Shortly after coming down from the mountains around Muncho Lake, you pass over the Liard River and the most recommended stop: The Liard Hot Springs.

We didn’t have the time – or the shorts – to stop. But EVERYONE we talked to told us to stop here. There was a stream of vehicles pouring in and out of here on the Wednesday when we drove by. It seemed quieter on the Sunday coming home.

This park has natural hot springs, a campground and allows dogs. It even has an electric fence around the perimeter to deter predators and keep visitors safe.

The park is open year round. From May 1 to September 30, there is a day-use fee of $5 for adults, $3 for children or $10 for families. Annual passes cost $10 for adults and $20 for families. Summer camping fees are $26 CAN. There is also a $20 non-resident of BC fee. There’s also a $6 fee to reserve a site ahead of time. First-come, first-served campers won’t have that $6 fee.

Whirpool Canyon

We made the impromptu decision to pull into this roadside attraction. The sign said, “Whirlpool Canyon.” How could we not stop and look at it? There were two other vehicles there, including one with Wisconsin plates. What were the odds? It is a tight squeeze to pull in and park so if you have a big rig, you may not be able to turn around. Located about 10km past Coal River. More info here.

As we got closer to Whitehorse, the Alaska Highway paralleled Marsh Lake, which the Yukon River flows through. We crossed the river on the Big Blue Bridge and soon we were downtown in the largest city in the province.

While the city boomed during the Gold Rush in 1896, it’s now become a modern city, with local IPA-filled breweries, hotels with conference centers and small glimpses of the history that built the community.

The Longest Salmon Migration in the World

Highlights included the Klondike Rib and Salmon restaurant, the museum that preserved The Government Telegraph Office that was built in 1900 and the fish ladder that preserved the largest salmon migration in the world after a hydro dam was built on the south side of town.

The Whitehorse Rapids “Fishway” is a long, wooden chute that is filled with rushing water. Each section of the chute has an opening that fish can swim into. Near the top of the ladder, a viewing station was built with windows into the ladder. A camera was installed so someone could count each salmon that passes through. This was a fascinating look into how humans have worked to incorporate a natural resource into infrastructure while still giving wildlife what they need to survive.

Wolf Lake Wilderness Lodge

From Whitehorse, we took a floatplane to Wolf Lake. We quickly lifted up from the Yukon River, over mountains and into the clouds. Unfortunately our flight in was mostly cloudy. But the flight back offered views that corner offices are jealous of.

Our week at Wolf Lake was filled with ridiculous grayling fishing, heart-thumping lake trout jigging, topwater pike action and a once-in-a-lifetime moose encounter as a rainbow colored the background.

The cabins were comfortable with diesel heaters. The newly-constructed lodge offered time together with other guests and delicious food.

Watch for the film coming to the Fish Hunt Forever YouTube channel to see more from Wolf Lake and the road trip along the Alaska Highway.

Thanks to Todd and Shari Collins for their hospitality at Wolf Lake. Click here to visit their website for more information.

How To Get To Whitehorse on the Alaska Highway:

By Vehicle: It’s a long drive, but I recommend doing it if you want to experience the Alaska Highway. Make sure to have your vehicle in shape. Oil change, tire rotation, etc. Some people recommend an extra spare or two and some extra fuel. Our journey was fine, but we did see a few vehicles along the side of the road. I also recommend topping off the fuel tank when you have the chance. Be prepared for closed gas stations that don’t always have pay at the pump.

Minneapolis: 40 Hours | 2,466 Miles
Denver: 40 Hours | 2,495 Miles
Seattle: 29 Hours | 1,622 Miles
Bozeman: 31 Hours | 1,897 Miles

By Plane: Most flights require at least two stops. Prices from 8/5/26:
Minneapolis (MSP) to Whitehorse (YXY): Flights range from $435 – $2,216
Denver: $502 – $1,872
Seattle: $464 – $1,172
Bozeman: $1,138 – $1,911

Whitehorse Lodging Options

When we arrived, most hotel options were quoting us $350 CAN prices. We weren’t sure exactly what night we would arrive, so we had to take what we could get. We stayed at the “Riverview” hotel because the price was so much lower. There are also some Airbnb options available.

Canada’s Best Value Riverview: $116-$118. We stayed here and it’s definitely not the nicest hotel in town. No air conditioning. But, for the price it was tough to beat.

Skyy Hotel: This was near the airport and we knew some guys that stayed there. We didn’t get much of a review, but the location was good for air travelers. $213

Sternwheeler: This large hotel is also a conference center. The restaurant “Tony’s” was a solid meal option. $189

Whitehorse Meal Options

Klondike Rib and Salmon: Easily my favorite restaurant that we visited. The halibut is beer-battered, which isn’t my first choice, but it was still pretty dang good. It comes with fries for $19 CAN.

Tony’s: Tony’s is located inside the Sternwheeler Hotel. I had scallops and prawns. The scallops were a little small and I wasn’t sold on the flavor, but overall I was really happy with the meal. The friendly bartender was great. I could have eaten dirty shoelaces and her bubbly demeanor would have made me enjoy them. I recommended going back and trying another dish, but we ran out of time. Meals range from $24 – $50 CAN for steaks.

Dirty Northern: We tried going here the first night, but it was packed. We came back at the end of the night for one last beer and it had completely emptied out. We ate there on our last night of the trip and it wasn’t the madhouse like the first night. The bison burger was pretty solid. There was a bit of a hipster vibe like much of Whitehorse unfortunately, but overall the meal experience wasn’t bad. Prices $26 CAN – $46 CAN.

Yukon Fry Co. We were excited to see a place dedicated to poutine and hot dogs. We had a great experience at Coney Island Poutine in Regina and hoped this would be similar. It was not. While the staff was pleasant and the food was fine, it felt like a generic fast food joint in a strip mall, which might be the most accurate description in this entire blog. It’s worth a stop if you want to try poutine and don’t want to go to a bar or expensive restaurant. They also have milkshakes! Prices range from $7 – $20CAN.

Bars/Nightlife in Whitehorse

The 98: This hotel and bar may have been my favorite place. The gold rush theme, the hole-in-the-wall vibe and the vintage rifle collection above the bar was right up my alley. The beer was good and judging by the crowd, so were the drinks. It was Open Mic night and the place was overflowing. We actually stood for our first beer as locals strummed away at popular covers and folksy originals.

There was a long table that had a couple empty seats. Our table-mates were waiting for their turn at the stage. They went by the Dan and Chic Duo and seemed to be the crowd favorite. Dan anchored the songs with his rythmic acoustic guitar and mellow vocals, while Chic seamlessly switched from an assortment of instruments such as the fiddle, accordionm harmonica and more. They were great.

We also noticed Shoresy cast member (Goody) and former hockey player Andrew Antsanen sitting nonchalently with some friends in the middle of the crowd. I wanted to ask him how his girlfriend cooks his eggs.

Local Brewery

Woodcutter’s Blanket/Brewery: With two moose fighting over the entrance, this seemed like a great place to try a local beer. We only stayed long enough for one. This place was not for us. They recommended reservations and the overall vibe screamed we should go somewhere else for a Busch Light. The staff was friendly however and accommodated us when it started to rain on our table outside and found us a spot inside to sit at.

I really wanted to like the place because of the history behind the building. They just bastardized it by catering to hipster tourists. According to their website: “Registered as the Widdershin cabin and often called “the moose” (referring to the faux animals that adorn its exterior), the small log building dates back to the 1930s.”

They have something called Iberian Ham Chips (???) lol. Sandwiches and burgers start at $20 CAN.

Other Recreation in Whitehorse

McBride Museum: We stopped in to try and find the Tourism Department but didn’t tour the museum. What I appreciated about it was that they built it over the old telegraph building, which you can see from the outside when you walk by. Here’s a description from their website:

Yukon’s first —and recently expanded – museum offers a comprehensive view of the resilient people and groundbreaking events that have shaped the territory’s history. Home to 40,000 objects, our galleries illustrate stories from Yukon First Nations, the natural world, the Klondike Gold Rush and more. Our Icons gallery showcases our unforgettable places and the amazing people who built modern Yukon. We’re also home to incredible art pieces, including a Ted Harrison collection and the Northern Lights icicles. Take it all in through engaging programs, events, music and storytelling. See the events section for details.
Yukon stories live here.

Open all year. Currently open for our Summer hours: Monday to Saturday from 9:30 to 5:00

Admission Fees to the McBride Museum

• Adult: $12
• Senior (65+) or Student (with valid ID) or Youth (13+): $11
• Children under 12 free with a paying adult.  Restrictions apply.  (Schools, camps, programs are excluded).
• Members: Free

There is a big visitor center that we stopped in at as well, hoping to talk to someone in Tourism. We just got a friendly face at the front desk who gave us an email that went unanswered and mentioned that the “fishway” would be neat to check out. They were right!

The Whitehorse Rapids Fishway

Whitehorse Rapids Fishway: Free Admission
From their website: The Whitehorse Rapids Fishladder is the longest wooden fish ladder in the world and plays a critical role in helping fish pass safely around the Whitehorse Rapids Dam. Important research and conservation work also takes place at the Fish ladder each year to ensure that salmon populations are monitored and supported with egg fertilization and fish release programs.

Through the Whitehorse Rapids Generating Station Relicensing Project process, the project’s Technical Working Group, made up of representatives from the Kwanlin Dün First Nation, Ta’an Kwäch’än Council, Carcross/Tagish First Nation and the Government of Yukon, is working to understand how we can operate the hatchery, fish ladder and dam in a better way. In 2023, we started keeping the gates of the viewing chamber at the fish ladder open 24/7, to allow the fish to pass through the ladder continuously and without interruption.

We used to close the gates overnight so fish ladder staff could count and sex the salmon the next morning but changed this practice after input from the Technical Working Group. We now use a camera to count and sex the salmon. In the summer of 2024, we also worked on improving the flows at the entrance to the ladder. By adjusting the attractant gate to balance the amount of water coming down the ladder and the flow through the spillway, it is easier for fish to find and enter the ladder. The learnings from this summer will inform how we operate the fish ladder moving forward.

The Alaska Highway is Worth the Trip

The road trip was amazing. It’s long, but worth it. While we didn’t finish the drive to Alaska, the portion we were on was beautiful. The surface was in great condition and the only traffic issue we encountered was when the semi’s were struggling to get up the mountains. That will slow you down. Passing can get difficult at times so drive carefully.

Dan was in the passenger seat for the good stuff on the way up and I was lucky to switch for the ride home. That gave us both opportunities to scan for animals and other sites that stood out. We both filmed and most likely filmed the same spots without realizing it.

Plan for moments of driving faster to make up ground and slow times when there are mountains, traffic and wildlife along the way.

Stop For Fuel When You Can

While I did bring an extra can of fuel, there are ample places to fill up – at least on the stretch we drove between Fort Nelson and Whitehorse. . The only place I started to get nervous about fuel was after passing Liard Hot Springs. I still had a half a tank, but on trips like this, that’s usually when I fill up. After passing by a remote gas station and winding through the wilderness, I began to wonder if I should have stopped. About two hours past the Hot Springs, I came to Lower Post. It’s an Indigenous community that has a fuel just off the highway. As we pulled in, we had to wait for two motorcycles who had the same thought I did. They also had Minnesota plates!

I had to go in to have them turn the pump on. The friendly staff took care of us and we were back on our way. Since we didn’t have any cell service, I didn’t realize that the city of Watson Lake, complete with multiple gas stations, hotels and even a Chinese restaurant, was only about 15 minutes further away.

Whitehorse was not the city I expected

Whitehorse is a nice place to stop along the way to Alaska. But it’s a city that caters to tourists who want to pretend they’re in the wild. You won’t feel remote or adventurous while in town. I honestly was anticipating something different. I expected a remote village, proud of it’s history. A community that still liked to live off the land and utilize the nearby Yukon River. Instead, it was a place for trendy tourists to snap selfies at fancy restaurants with meals you can’t pronounce.

But, if you’re just on your way through to Wolf Lake Wilderness Lodge, it’s got all the amenities you need before going into the actual wilderness. These meal and lodging options will get you through your short stay in town.